我开始相信,那些自感的折磨和不幸,假如你复原走出来了,你会发现,它们其实是来自上帝的礼物,经过了包装。

感谢各种力量,来自大自然、摸索者、传爱者、文学、艺术的。

送给一些挣扎着,挣扎过,或者生活在阳光中的人。

德格路上,甘孜州

Journey to Dege 

Dali - Shangarila - Xiangcheng - Xinlong - Deger - Tzongsa Monastery - Yaqing Acha town - Luhuo - Kangding - Chengdu

行程: 大理-香格里拉-乡城-理塘-新龙-德格-宗萨寺-亚青寺阿察镇-炉霍-康定-成都

 

自驾,大众五座轿车

our tool

beetabonk driving in Ganze Tibetan region

 

外籍人不能自驾进藏,所以从滇藏,川藏到甘孜进入德格。从大理到德格其实穿越西藏是最短路途。德格古城到宗萨寺和白玉一段都是走在川藏边界上,一江之隔。

 

每日驾车时间控制在地图时间五小时之内,因为beetabonk一人驾车,白天一般需要补工作,中途会停车休息,逛村落,争取天黑之前到下一家住宿。

 

8月19日起两周,雨季末,早晚会有雨,白天晴天,洗好的衣服大多时候是透过车窗晒干的。

Aug. 19-31 monsoon is almost over, there was rain in the morning and over night, during the day we got mostly sun.

 

海拔从两千的大理出发,最高处约五千。以前居北京时到海拔三千的夏河有明显的高反,现在居住在大理五年之后,一路上没有明显高反症状,易喘和疲劳还是会有。

Altitude: 2000 - 5000m

 

去年从Shambhala出版社找到蒋杨秋吉罗卓的生平传,藏文夹杂的英文版,边看边翻术语解释,各人各世之间的联系,做着比治疗教育更详细的笔记时我就知道会来看看他生活的地方。

Reading《The Life and Times of Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö》published by Shambhala Publications, I knew that I'd be here.

 

D1 大理-香格里拉  Dali-Shangarila

这次是到香格里拉中转,没有抽时间重游,早上小逛独宗克古城,人迹刚开始的街道,它呼着攒了一夜的热气。

 

 

D2 香格里拉-奔子栏-乡城   Shangarila-Benzilan-Xiangcheng

原计划从香格里拉走大雪山小雪山到乡城,一藏族小伙子告知从奔子栏开了一条乡道,路很好走,于是开始了一场靠着手绘线路,导航上不存在的路,山里的新乡道转了三小时。

山,落石,新开的地图上不存在的村道,晴朗的天空,群山中峡谷是生命的聚集地,三小时无人的落石路后遇见的第一落村庄有进入天堂的感觉。

In the mountain area, valley is where life gathers, after 3 hours of road drive with fallen rocks and no people, the first village is like reaching paradise.

fallen rocks 落石 峡谷村落

life of the valley in Tibet乡城

 

 

D3 乡城-理塘   Xiangcheng-Litang

 

乡城到理塘路上,翻越的第一座山峰

 first peak we reached, at 4,500m

Tibetan village藏族村落praying flagsKeiko on hill

 

 

沿途的新村庄 

new villages near Daocheng

藏族新村Tibetan woman drying yak wastenew village 稻城

 

理塘古城区很美,密密的藏式房子,充满生活气息,可惜没有客栈或民宿,只能住一公里外的新城,并且对酒店是否有接待外宾执照的检查很严,第一家喜欢的青稞酒店没能住下,她说没有去领对外执照,常常深夜会查房。

Among the places we've been, Litang seems to have most restriction about where foreign passport holders can stay - authorized hotels for foreigners, or international guesthouses.

 

D4 理塘-新龙 Litang - Xinlong

跨鹤高飞意壮哉,云霞一羽雪皑皑:此行莫恨天涯远,咫尺理塘归去来。

-仓央嘉措

于是七世达赖诞生在理塘

 

七世达赖诞生地 Birth place of 7th Dalai Lama

七世达赖诞生地birth place of the 7th Dalai Lama

要领着沙娃走经道的她教着他朝拜的细节,我们用有限的共同语言交流,沙娃嘴里唱着他喜欢的歌曲chitty bangbang, chitty chitty bang bang, 她回头告诉同伴,chitty bangbang 是他的经文。  Chitty bangbang was his mantra.

七世达赖诞生地birth place of the 7th Dalai Lama理塘 litang

 

理塘寺 Litang Monastery

 

Litang Monastery理塘寺

理塘 litang理塘寺

理塘 litang curiousity理塘 litang

 

理塘外的草原  life on the grassland

理塘草原 litang grasslandchildren on grassland 理塘 litang理塘草原 litang

新龙 Xinlong, where we got our first (and only) driving ticket

Tibetan children on grassland 理塘 litangtown of Xinlong 甘孜新龙县

 

 

D5 新龙-德格 Xinlong - Dege

一路的惊喜  non-stop surprises

 

雀儿山 on the way to Dege德格路上,甘孜州

这是驾驶时间最长的一天,经过关卡,山路,长隧道,到德格已经快天黑。

winding roads夏日的雪山甘孜州 snow mountain on the road to Dege

 

D6 德格  Dege

 

更庆寺法会,短暂地跟白玛师傅匆匆见了一面,这次没来得及多交流

德格更庆寺 Gengqing Monastery in Dege更庆寺白玛师傅

印经院 Dege Sutra-Printing House

德格印经院 seal temple of Dege, where they printed the mantras德格德格

德格印经院 seal temple of Dege, where they printed the sutrasDege Sutra-Printing House德格

beetabonk's photos from the printing house

德格印经院 Dege Sutra-Printing House德格印经院 Dege Sutra-Printing House德格德格

 

D7 德格县城-宗萨寺  Dege town - Dzongsar Monastery

看着导航上时有时无的路,公路标识是宗沙寺,和八邦寺一个方向,在进藏关口调头进山,一路在川藏边界上,一河之隔,后面的路标只剩八邦,导航上的路也消失了,虽然山路是刚修好的乡道,弯绕却完好,开了大半小时在白垭寺休息时小店店主说宗萨寺是另一条路,我们拐早了。好吧,需要坚持的事物都是来之不易的。

60km turns out to be a 3-hour drive, the hidden paradise

on the road to Dzongsar monastery宗萨峡谷寻找宗萨寺

 


《宗萨寺历史》(菩马彭措1846年编纂)记载:「宗萨寺有超过一千一百年的历史,最初是由苯波教持明者于公元746年所建。」基于当时的主殿只有一根柱子和一尊佛像,故取名“一佛一柱殿”。该苯波教佛像于1958年以前一直存放于本寺中,但在文革期间与寺院一同被毁。后来寺院改为宁玛派,而后又改为噶当派,直至1275年,八思巴来到此地后,本寺成为萨迦派寺院至今。

蒋扬钦哲旺波Jamyang Khyentse Wangpo 9岁进入宗萨寺,12岁时,由塔则祥巴根嘎登真认证为塔则祥巴朗卡其美的转世,取名蒋扬钦哲旺波根嘎登比加称巴绒波,人称塔则活佛或夏仲。

公元1893年,第二世蒋扬却吉洛珠Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö(又译秋吉罗卓/确吉罗珠)出生。主要弟子有萨迦派的达千法王、鄂派堪布和所有夏仲、那栏扎寺生伍、鹫诫赤青法王;宁玛派的敏珠林寺两位堪布、第六世竹庆·宜邢、第六世协庆·冉江、顶果钦哲、噶陀司徒;噶举派的司徒贝玛旺秋和第三世蒋贡康楚;格鲁派的十四世达赖、格西江若、衮林达察杰仲、门耀地区雷霞衮、格达活佛等(据悉还有《西藏生死之书》的作者索甲)。第十六绕迥土猪(1959)年五月初六,伴随出现光明、大地震动、天乐自鸣等瑞相他圆寂了;世寿六十七岁。

1961年,第三世蒋扬土登曲吉佳措出生于不丹,是敦珠法王之子赤列罗布和四朗桑波之女蒋扬曲珍所生。萨迦法王、第十六世噶玛巴、顶果钦哲和敦珠法王共同认证他为第二世蒋扬却吉洛珠的转世,7岁在锡金由萨迦法王主持坐床典礼。

 

今日正是中元节。 钦哲的管家在屋顶静坐,身边手上一堆拔下的小草。填充牦牛的长辈,有着跟秋吉相似的面容,一直在看喜悦的沙娃。

Dzongsar Khyentse' old residence 宗萨钦哲旧居宗萨寺

Dzongsar Khyentse' old residence 宗萨钦哲旧居宗萨寺

 

大殿里挂着哈达的大门,带着时间痕迹的暗红,那时我明白,为什么催眠时想象的花园里没有门,那座楼梯总是不安定,我要推开的,也许不是花园,应该是像这样的殿堂。

宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery宗萨寺

 

萨迦派(花教)房子

宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings

宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings

宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings宗萨寺 Dzongsar Monastery 萨迦派建筑 sakya buildings

 

to be continued

 

365 Days on image 日子与片段

chants for peace, Lama Gyurme & Jean-Philippe

 

2018.7.3

This chanting music has deeply touched me, only now, after years of listening to it, did I think of looking up who's behind this beautiful light. And it's been a delight to discover: Lama Gyurme, the director of the Kagyu Dzong Temple in Paris and the Vajradhara Ling center in Normandy and Jean-Philippe, a French pianist who approaches the world via sound instead of eye sight.

 

2018.6.2

假如超度是通过向导将你无畏无执地指引到另一方,纪念的追悼会大概是相似的历程。从身边的人眼里看自己的一生,另一个角度,不一样的记忆点,穿插的时间线,让他们知道,这一段生命图已圆满。一生已圆满,继续前行。

 

Today I suddenly came to the realization that, a memorial service probably is in some way similar to a Bardo ritual. Stories, experience which crossed one's life time were shared by other people - they came to learn about another life picture  through others' eyes, and learned that this life is completed. If Bardo ritual is for the soul to be guided to the other side by a guru, they probably share some similarities. This life has completed, please go ahead.

 

2018.5.11

醒来看见曲迦发的这张照片,想念佛香萦绕的地方。#日巴禅修不丹之旅 Repa in Bhutan

 

2018.2.19

酒吧里的主唱嘴里叼着一支烟,专注地唱。我在想,他是否感叹人生短暂,于是同时做着两件需要高度集中的事情。

 

2018.1.22 

平衡不是不温不火,而是我们身体极限之间的区域。

你的极限韧度越大,平衡区域也越大。

Balance is not about being absolute stable, it’s the green area between your limits. 

 

2017.12.31

2017年的最后一晚,梦见自己在清理物品,几个箱子,一堆教科书,还有三包用密封袋装着的食物,剩菜,应该放了几年。正准备扔掉,一回头发现,O.把那几袋食物放碟子里吃了,我说,希望你不会因此生病。

反射的是我内心攒了多年的负能量吗?

 

2017.12.18

Last night I had this vivid feeling that a car accident was going to happen, so I kept reminding myself to get plenty of sleep, and ride slowly in the morning. 

This morning Chouchou let out a long mourn, kept climbing in and out, when I followed her, I found Pajama (her baby) lying by the front door, blood coming out from her nose, ears, eyes…blood stain was on the road, I think Chouchou dragged her body back. A neighbor said it’s by a car.

When I was wrapping her up, Chouchou was in the house chewing a cardboard box, hunting fish and leaves.

May all your favourite memories be with you.

Pajama 8.25 - 12.18, 2017

 

 

2017.11.24

 

Am reading 《The Life and Times of Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö》and became very interested in Khandro Tsering, Jamyang Rinpoche's wife. The two images of her later years here was her with the reincarnation of her late husband, the profound teacher Dzongsar Jamyang Khyentse Rinpoche. The transformation of physical life is fascinating.

 

康卓慈玲秋淳,蒋扬钦哲确吉罗卓,她晚年两张是和蒋扬的转世宗萨蒋扬钦哲仁波切。喜欢看人一生不同阶段的照片,生命很神奇。

  

11.7

忌辰一年我才开始翻他近几年的采访记录。有一段是几年前的,他晚年的生活伴侣,多年来的和音歌手安嘉妮也在。安说,他们在一起的生活是很平淡的,科恩是个很好的伴侣,超棒的厨子。

青少年时对平淡的生活带有恐惧,现在回想,那时恐惧的其实不是平淡,而是那时所见的平淡中的腐烂,而一些平淡中,是可以充满生命力的。

One of the interviews of Leonard with Anjani, Anjani said that, they had a very normal life, he's a good partner, and a good cook.

For many years I had a fear of living a "normal life", now I realize that, the "normal life" I feared of, was not the "normal" side itself, but the rotting side in it that I saw; and now I know, in some normal forms, it can be filled with light.  (Image: Leonard Cohen 2016)

 

11.19 

懂得伪装,大概是成长的一个里程碑。中午上楼,听见房间传来ipad的声音,房门反锁,敲门两分钟后沙利文才走过来开门,临开门前听见他在念叨《Sound of Colors》(吉米的地下铁),果真抱着这本书来开门。ipad横躺在床上温温的。

傍晚听见打火机的声音,我走出来,他捧起一盘观音莲冲着我傻笑,桌上有半片烧剩的叶子。

恭喜你,长大了。

Learning to lie probably is a milestone in growing up. This morning I heard cartoon music from the iPad, bedroom door was locked, I knocked, Sullivan came open the door after a few minutes, just before he got to the door, I heard him saying “Sound of Colors”, he did open the door with the book 《Sound of Colors》 (an illustration book by a Taiwanese artist). iPad was lying on the bed, still warm.

Evening time hearing the sound of pressing a lighter, I walked out of the kitchen, he picked up a pot of cactus and gave me a smile, on the table there was a half burnt leave. 

Congratulations Sullivan, you’ve reached a new milestone.

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4 years 四年

 

Three years 三年

 

Three years 三年

 

one year 一年

 

 

 

Son of the nature

 

If someone with speech & language therapy experience, or just the passion and skill to play and communicate with child with delayed speech, boys games, rock climbing, horse riding etc., in English, interested in spending one month in China/Yunnan, I am offering room & board Dali home-stay for exchange.

Roughly ten hours per week, easy work :)

  

If I was ever assigned a mission, it was to help you locate and connect to the things that brighten up your eyes.

 

2010年,小双鱼出生在北京,18个月的时候在内蒙草原他追着羊群满山跑,什么语言都不愿意运用的他,边追边喊,sheep, shee, shee-eep!

2012年我决定让他在大自然中成长; 2013年我们搬到了云南大理。

 

耶鲁大学儿童研究中心把沙利文定义为高功能自闭症儿童,搬回美国,接受治疗,能帮助他去学会日常中不能做的事情,那是教授的建议。融入群体,当然重要,训练我们不会置忘。然而作为妈妈,最重要的大概是帮助他去寻找和发展可以让他眼睛发亮的事情,而这些,不是治疗师可以给我答案的。教授说,我尊重你的意见。

 

July 2017

The mysteries of CAPD  神奇的中枢听觉处理障碍

When we were taking a canoe down the stream, we saw crocodiles in the water, peacocks in the trees, I pointed to Sullivan, can you see the peacocks? His eyes were fixed in the air and said, deer. The guide smiled and said, there's no deer here. One minute down the stream, we suddenly saw a small group of deer in the bushes, a king with 4 female deer. Some time later we were looking at kingfishers, he said, orangutan. The one minute later, we saw a red monkey on the tree. When we were reaching the bank, he said, tiger!

今天我忽然在想,沙利文是否能听到动物存在的声音。划船时看见鳄鱼,孔雀,向导给我们指孔雀的位置,说,看见了吗?我说,沙利文,你看见孔雀了吗?他说,deer. 我说,不是鹿,是孔雀,就在那。向导也笑笑,没有鹿。船往前划了一分钟左右,果真看见草丛里有几头鹿,其中一个是雄壮的公鹿,大大的角,他旁边还有几只小鹿。再往前划时看见翠鸟,沙利文说,orangutan猩猩. 一分钟后我们看见了红色的猴子;快上岸时,他说,tiger. 还好,我们往大象养殖中心走了。

 

 

 

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几年前参加一个关于处理家庭关系的分享会,一位居住海外妈妈的分享是,她有两个青春期的孩子,其中大孩子是唐氏儿 - 现在国内孕期检查都有唐氏筛查这项,一般筛查出胎儿有唐氏综合症,医生建议是人流。至于为什么,大概是觉得表面的压力是一般家庭难以承受的。

这位妈妈说,孩子小时候,她曾难以接受这个事实,觉得他人,包括自己,用异样的眼光看你。直到有一天,一家子去唐人街超市,大孩子在出口等着,一位白人老奶奶看着那孩子,然后看看妈妈,很感动地跟妈妈说,上帝给了你一份多么特别的礼物,他选择了你当这位特别孩子的母亲。

 

 

四月的时候我想带孩子走一段可以接触大自然,动物,当地文化,不同灵魂(异样的生活方式), 有缘的话可以遇上一些智慧隐者,适合耗体力,心灵疗愈的旅程。

可是我没有这样的能力,于是我联系了可以帮助我的朋友。八月,我们出行。

 

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© 2010-2018 Keiko Wong - journey of life, travel photography, portraits, literature 中英文现代文学译者,摄影师