Sumba, Indonesia 松巴岛

Sumba, is not Bali
Also known as Humba / Hubba / Suba / Zuba, located in the Eastern Indonesia, still remains untouched.清晨蟾蜍来破晓。
这个极少问津的岛靠着国际组织支援开发,小型飞机没有专门通道,差点走上货机。Resort主人说,十五年前他移居松巴岛时,还未通电。一藤一根地跟岛民一起打造这个地方。有情怀有使命的人,充满敬意。
Where We Stay
Mario (eco resort)Homestay at Wai Hura
Rua Beach (on my top list, but missed it for some reason this time, the area is nice - from Rua beach to Wai Hura, the google map is not accessible, the actual journey is 45 minutes drive although the coast line looks near)
Lelewatu (luxury resort)
What to eat
Restaurant options are still limited, yet there have been memorable foods: Grilled prawns; dining at Makan Dulu; cassava leaves stir fry papaya flowers - a local delicate, where both cassava and papaya plants are abundant; when we don't know what to eat, going for gado gado or Bakso is always a safe choice.Highlight of the island - traditional villages and indigenous people
Sumba villages are renowned for their unique, living megalithic culture, where traditional, high-roofed houses (uma mbatangu) surround massive stone tombs of ancestors - although nowadays most of the roofs are replaced with tin roofs, which are meant to last 15-25 years, instead of 5-15. Below are pictures from Kampung Praijing (more like historical site for display), Kampung Tarung (my favourite, more lived in), Ratenggaro is in the east, didn't make it that far this time, Wanno Karedi (mainly tin roofs, but remains untouched, most stunning faces I've seen, not a single shop in sight).松巴土著,高顶的竹木稻草房子,顶上为储物空间及祖先灵魂驻地。在岛上,房屋对面往往是祖坟,有如后花园,还能晾衣服,孩童聚集玩耍。经过几家在建的新房子,屋顶还未搭好,新坟已经盖起。生死共存。
Untouched beaches
岛上最不缺的,是漫长的无人海滩Countless untouched beaches, Watu Bella, Pantai Lailiang, Pantai Lae Eha, Pantai Kita, Pero Beach, Kerewei, I can't name 1% of them.
Kota Kinabalu

相貌平平的食物,却带着满满的鲜活感,深深震撼了几次 - 展开
Central Market的hivana生鱼沙拉;Pate Grill House (Gaya street)的Nasi Lamak (很好的环境,4美金的套餐,震撼味蕾的新鲜调料);成兴茶餐厅(Seng Hing Coffee Shop, since 1978)的Kuching Laksa,汤底是鲜活的;佑记肉骨茶(Yu Kee Bak Kut Teh)的人间烟火;夜市的红石斑和虎虾土著红猩猩 - Sandakan一日
15美金无行李额的亚航,让KK到Sandakan一日游变得可能。早上10点的航班(六七点的航班也有)晚上9点的回程,足够的时间到Senpilok的红猩猩救助中心,马来熊基地和老城区。廉价的出租车
机场到市中心Grab两美金,立马放弃了租车自驾的念头。城区不大,于是不管在沙滩上,夜市里,还是公寓里,随时一抬头,就是飞机的影子。River Cruise
River cruise可视的野生动物(巨蜥 monitor lizard / 长鼻猴 proboscis monkey / 满树的萤火虫)Fishing Village 渔村
Kampung Gipsi, Gaya island的渔村,有限的生存环境,未通电,无法消化的垃圾山,然而,生活稳稳地继续,放风筝的孩子,给船涂色的年轻人。Phuket 普吉印象
展开 免签/海滩/假日房价/野草合法/高价出租
- 交通 - 昆明直飞,是真的方便
- 签证 – 中国公民免签了,可是入境队伍好长
- 一月,国内最冷的月份,正午的普吉依旧热得难以出门
- 几大海滩:
最爱Karon (卡隆海滩),海滩长,白沙,适合扑浪,不拥挤,许多餐饮店和夜市;
Kata (卡塔)据说是普吉岛上最受欢迎的海滩,中部很长一段是ClubMed,南部海滩不长,角落小湾很安静,傍晚有惊艳的群鸟飞过;
Kamala Beach(卡马拉海滩)最早看介绍时主要想去Kamala,因为低调,由两个渔村组成,Hyatt(凯悦酒店)也在卡马拉,去后发现,低调得有点不成器,村子已经没有村庄的模样,食物也是为了迎合外来人口味,略去许多香料和调料,变得淡然无味;
Patong(芭东海滩)普吉岛之心,热门,拥挤到水泄不通,两家泰拳馆都在芭东;
Nai Harn(奈汉海滩)- 我们没去,根据Phuket 101介绍,奈汉是“有很多餐厅、酒店和商店,都还保持着最初纯朴的韵味。奈汉的海湾受到良好的保护,成为帆船和豪华游艇极佳的停泊处,因而长期以来深受外籍人士和当地人的欢迎与喜爱。”
- 住宿性价比有点低,此程住宿人民币均价一千上下的家庭房,优势是靠海边,有泳池,带自助早餐(不好吃),设施跟国内如家差不多
- 货币 – 7/11,屈臣氏和机场一些店基本都能用微信或支付宝;小地方用现金,商场刷卡,我们直接银行卡取款,按当天汇率算,而且手续费不高;旅游区街头有货币兑换,汇率差别可以很大,要选
- 街头食物依然很好吃,最好吃的青木瓜沙拉是街头买的,折合人民币5元;最好吃的拌面是在当地食摊,鱼肉碎咖喱拌米粉,也是几块钱
- 出租车很贵,三公里都要五六十人民币;海边的公交车100泰铢(20人民币)均价;在普吉镇坐过一次15铢的公交车,在海边地区基本没有这样的价格了
- Marijuana已经合法化,年轻的小伙子在店里拿着镊子称,卷,递交,让我想起炼金术师
- 普吉镇在普吉岛中部,交通、住宿、食物都算性价比最高的,可是不靠近任何海滩
- 附近小岛: 许多旅游中介有跳岛服务(island hopping), 旁边还有几个小岛,阁遥岛/瑶亚岛Koh Yao Yai, Koh Yao Nai, 过了阁遥岛是兰塔岛Koh Lanta,住宿性价比都比普吉高
Us
2 digital nomads & 1 neuro-divergent teen



